SALT
RESEARCH
IMPROVISED EXPLOSIVES
There are several kinds of explosives it might be possible for Salt to make from things she can acquire while incarcerated.
A peroxide bomb:
These generally break down into two kinds: triacetone triperoxide (TATP) and HMTD, or hexamethylene triperoxide diamine.
TATP (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone_peroxide) or acetone peroxide,
is what shoe-bomber Richard Reid tried to use. It can be made by mixing Hydrogen peroxide (used at home to bleach hair or clean wounds), Acetone (nail polish remover) and Sulfuric acid (car batteries).
HMTD (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexamethylene_triperoxide_diamine) is popular with suicide bombers. It can be made from solid fuel tablets for camping, hydrogen peroxide and citric acid. It’s very sensitive. Even sunlight could set it off.
A nifty peroxide bomb can be made from a household battery and hydrogen peroxide.
A chlorine bomb:
A form of plastic explosives can be made from household bleach.
A simple chlorine bomb, strong enough to blow up a mail box, can be made by mixing chlorine tablets and rubbing alcohol. Simply shaking the combination creates the reaction so no flame is needed to ignite the mixture.
Thermite:
Thermite, “is a pyrotechnic composition of aluminium powder and a metal oxide which produces an aluminothermic reaction known as a thermite reaction. It is not explosive, but can create short bursts of extremely high temperatures focused on a very small target for a short period of time.” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermite)
Thermite might be a good choice for an escape. Mixed with an accelerant like gasoline, thermite creates a powerful and distracting fireball and spreads the reaction. It would easily burn through a metal door or metal cell bars.
Thermite is made from iron oxide and aluminum. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams. Iron oxide is simply rust and could either be made or acquired by Salt in prison. The aluminum could come from aluminum filings or simple aluminum foil crushed to a powder. The mixture is then placed in the desired location and lit. Thermite does need an extremely high temperature to ignite.
Non-dairy creamer fireball (aka Dust bomb):
One of the most spectacular explosions can be made with non-dairy creamer. Anything flammable that can be caused to have a large amount of surface area and ignited can be made to explode, including sawdust, flour or non-dairy creamer. Generally something is used to shoot the non-dairy creamer in the air and then ignited. The fireball can easily reach 50 ft.
It would also be possible for Salt to make black powder (mixing charcoal) made from newspaper with sugar, explosive nitrocellulose can be made from ping pong balls, egg white can be used to gel gasoline and a delay ignition can be made from a cigarette. Below are more detailed articles and videos of the various explosive methods. Some aren’t practical for someone in a high security jail but may be useful elsewhere.
IMPROVISED EXLPOSIVE ARTICLES
1. How to Make HMTD
http://business.fortunecity.com/executive/674/hmtd.html
WARNING: HMTD is dangerous and sensitive to FRICTION, SHOCK, HEAT OR FLAME. Handle with great care !! Even wet HMTD is dangerous and will detonate with
ease. This is a dangerous explosive! If this explosive is let to sit in the sun, IT WILL DETONATE! If you do not have experience with explosives DO NOT MAKE THIS.
Due to the extreme sensitivity to heat, shock, and friction make HMTD a poor choice for the lesser skilled chemist.
Information on HMTD:
HMTD is a very unstable primary explosive compound that can be made from hexamethylenetetramine, hydrogen peroxide, and citric acid.
With this explosive it is possible to create a blasting cap. This primary shock wave will detonate the base charge in the caps. The base charge of the cap is normally R.D.X. or some other high explosive. The base charge needs to be powerful and stable, but still sensitive to the primary detonation wave. The 6700 M/sec. plus base charge detonation velocity, will set off the main charge.
HMTD is a high performance initiating explosive. It is one of the better initiating explosives but has some definite drawbacks. HMTD is not stable at even slightly elevated temperatures. Room temperature will even cause a decrease in performance with storage time. As one would imagine, due to the extreme excess of oxygen, the corrosion of metals in contact with the peroxide is a problem. The metals that will cause problems are aluminum,zinc, antimony, brass, copper, lead and iron. These metals in contact with the HMTD even when dry, will cause corrosion.
DETONATION VELOCITY: 4511 M/sec. @ 0.88 G/cc
5100 M/sec. @ 1.10 G/cc
FRICTION SENSITIVITY: Very Sensitive!!!
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME: Small quantities flash like guncotton Large
accumulations will detonate.
Materials Sources
----------------
Hexamethylenetetramine C6H12N4 - solid fuel tablets for camping out available at army surplus stores. Also known as urotropine, hexamine, methenamine, etc.
Hydrogen Peroxide 6% H2H2 - or stronger. It can be purchased at a beauty supply store. It is sold as hair bleach. I asked them for hydrogen peroxide.
They said that they don't sell pure H2H2 but they gave me a product that was used in the process of lightening hair. I got the strongest number. If you look at the back of the bottle is shows that H2H2 is the main ingredient.
Citric Acid C6H8O7 - Available at Drug or Food stores, known as "sour salt"(I ordered it from "The King Arthur Flour Baker's Catalogue)
Containers, (I used empty yogurt containers)
Coffee filter
Teaspoon and 1/2 teaspoon measuring spoons
Pan
Distilled water
Procedure
---------
Measure 9 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide into a container. In 3 portions,dissolve 2.5 teaspoons of crushed hexamine in the peroxide. Keep the
solution cool for 30 minutes by placing the container in a pan of cold water. In 5 portions, dissolve 4.5 teaspoons of crushed citric acid in the hexa-peroxide solution. Permite solution to stand at room temperature or in the refrigerator until solid particles for at the bottom of the container.
Note: Complete precipitation will take place in 8-24 hours
Filter the mixture through a coffee filter into a container to collect the solid particles. Wash the solid particles collected in the coffee filter
with 6 teaspoons of distilled water by pouring the water over them. Discard the liquid in the container. Allow to dry. In a COOL dry place. NOT IN THE
SUN! Place these explosives in a container.
Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep from open sparks or flames. Store in a cool, dry place. You can see what happened bellow when left in the sun.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bellow is a picture of an accidental detonation of HMTD. The coffee filter with the HMTD was drying after filtration. I was not thinking and I left it
in the sun. The HMTD went off from the intense heat from the sun, making an enormous BOOM! It sounded like a CO2 bomb. The only reason why it was so
powerful was that it was spread out over the entire filter. You can see what damage it did to the bench it was laying on. The hole that was blown in the bench was about eight inches across. If the HMTD went off while I was working on it, I would have been a goner.
[hmtd_boom.gif (154720 bytes)] [hmtd_boom2.gif (75975 bytes)]
You can see how dangerous and unstable HMTD is. Extreme caution would be
taken when making HMTD.
Some of the chemicals needed for HMTD:
[hmtd_chem.jpg (85138 bytes)]
READ THIS! When the complete precipitation has taken place a filmy layer should have formed. I have noticed sometimes there will be less or almost no film in the container. When this happens BE CAREFUL it usually means that it is a LOT more powerful then usual.
© 1999 - Aerodynamic Inventions. All Rights Reserved
2. How to make triacetone-triperoxide (TATP)
http://losttarget.blogspot.com/2006/08/making-triacetone-triperoxide.html
I looked it up on the internet and found out how to make the bombs that the terrorist were going to use against the airlines.
It's called triacetone triperoxide and this is what you need.
1. Hydrogen peroxide (used at home to bleach hair or clean wounds)
2. Acetone (nail polish remover)
3. Sulfuric acid (car batteries)
It also helps to have ice on hand and a refrigerator.
Any high school drop out can make it, and as far as I can tell from my readings if not mixed until arriving at the planned detonation point, undetectable by bomb detectors.
It's rather popular in the Middle East and has been used for some time. It's rather unstable and bomb makers in Lebanon can be identified by the burn marks on their bodies or the missing fingers and/or hands.
One future scenario is for the "bad guys" (it's not political correct to call them Muslim extremist) is too refine the products separately and place each in a condom, swallow them, and then combine the ingredients at the detonation site.
So much for security checks at the airports, and God forbid if we racial profile, monitor bank accounts, or listen in on phone conversations of those linked to Islamic fascism.
As you know, the New York Times would not approve.
Did I mention that a detonator is not required. Friction or a slight heat source will set if off.
3. Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach
http://www.skepticfiles.org/new/003doc.htm
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
1. A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
2. A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3. A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4. Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0∞C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this
4. How to Make a Bomb from a Battery
http://www.totse.com/en/bad_ideas/ka_fucking_boom/162279.html
Alright, so you wanna make an inexpensive pressure bomb without messing with drano and sulfuric acid and all those other dangerous chemicals.(which can burn the crap out of your skin if your not careful.) All you need is a battery, a 2 liter plastic bottle, and hydrogen peroxide(3% by solution is fine), a hammer and a sharp nail. The size of the battery doesn't matter, although I don't recommend some of the D batteries because the new ones aren't dry cell anymore, and the concentrated sulfuric acid inside can burn you.
First, you might want to move everything outside, cause if you don't know what you're doing this can make a mess. Take the battery that you're using, I prefer a duracel or energizer AA battery, and set it up vertical, so the negative side is facing towards you.(That's the flat side to those who don't have a clue of what I'm talking about) Now, while holding the battery with one hand, take the nail and place it on the center of the negative side of the battery with the point of the nail against the battery. With the hand that it holding battery, you should also hold the nail in place. Gently, and I mean gently, tap the nail with the hammer until a tiny hole is in the battery. BE CAREFUL WHILE DOING THIS!!!!!!! Batteries are under pressure from the chemical reaction that takes place in them, so move your head to the side, you don't want to get sprayed! A little air should spray out of the battery, this is good, you just relieved the pressure and now the battery is basically harmless. Now, however you can get the battery open is your choice, I prefer using a hacksaw and sawing it lengthwise, but whatever you want to do.
Once it's open, you will see a whole lot of black stuff and a rolled up piece of paper in the middle with silver chunks of metal. The black stuff is Magnesium Oxide, this is what you want to collect.(The silver stuff is Zinc) Use the nail to scrape it from the battery, never your hands. It contains a small amount of Sulfuric Acid in it, not enough to harm you, but some people react to things different than other people. If you have gloves, use them!!! Once you have all the "Black Stuff" from the battery, let it sit for about an hour in the sun or under a light, this will dry it out. Once dry, crush it into very fine granules so there are no chunks. (You don't have to let it dry, but the bomb will be better if you crush it up.)
Alright! You're almost done, all you have to do now is pour 2 16oz. bottles of Hydrogen Peroxide(they sell for about 25 cents at Walmart) in the 2 liter bottle and add the "Black Stuff!" Viola!! there's your bomb! When you add the Magnesium Oxide, screw the cap on as fast as you can, make sure it's tight, real tight, throw it and run! You should have a very nice explosion in about 10-20 seconds!
This method is tried and true, works everytime, if you do it like I said. Be careful though, I am not taking any responsibility for your behavior! You do what you want with this information!
5. Thermite bombs
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/thrmboms.htm
Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite by Jolly Roger
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.
- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive.
- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).
- Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)
- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams.
- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find.. call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the thermite.
- Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!!
6. How to Make Non-dairy Creamer fireballs
http://www.skylighter.com/fireworks/how-to-make/cremora-fireballs.asp
So, What is a Cremora Fireball?
In years past I've heard of accidents at grain silos or flour mills, where clouds of dust have been ignited by a spark resulting in a tragic explosion. A bag of flour is not a fire hazard, but mix it with air and it becomes a highly flammable mixture.
It takes fuel, oxygen and a heat-source to produce a fire. A Cremora fireball is simply a device which projects a powdered fuel up into the air, where it gets mixed with the atmosphere, is ignited by the propellant, which results in a large fireball as the fuel and air burn together.
At some time in years past, an enterprising soul decided to project some Cremora brand coffee-creamer powder up into the air using a black powder propellant, and the Cremora fireball was born. Even though Cremora brand creamer is next to impossible to find nowadays, and other substitutes are used, these fireball pots will forever be referred to as Cremora Pots, or just Cremoras.
The simplest of Cremoras can be made with just a metal can, some black powder, a 4" piece of Visco safety fuse, a disc cut out of a paper napkin, and some flammable powder.
How to Make a Simple Cremora Fireball Pot
For a large fireworks display, Cremoras made in 5 gallon plastic buckets produce an impressive fireball for everyone to see. I'll provide some details on these in a moment, but these fireballs are so large that everyone really needs to be at least 200 feet from them because of safety concerns.
In smaller, backyard type displays, small Cremora pots, made in 12, 15, or 28 ounce metal cans, like what soups and vegetables come in, can produce impressive, safe fireballs. Some folks use cans as large as #10 cans, or even the size of a large coffee can. Small plastic pails and cans work well as containers, too.
Whatever container you use, you want a smooth interior wall, without any lip that protrudes toward the inside at the top of it. You want the contents of the pot to be able to be smoothly propelled skywards.
Warning: Safe is a relative term. As with any fireworks device that propels flame into the air and has the potential to malfunction and send pieces of the container flying, it is always best to maintain safe distances from the device when it fires. Barricade the device with concrete blocks, or bury the pot in a hole in the ground. Nothing would take all the fun out of this faster than having someone get hurt, especially some innocent spectator.
For these small fireballs, I start with a clean, empty can, and punch a Visco-size hole in the side of the can, right near the bottom, with a sharp awl.
Note: It is best to proceed with all of the following procedures with the container in place in the location where the fireball will be shot. We want the flammable powder to stay fluffy, and this prevents the flammable powder from settling as it would if the pot was moved after assembly. If you build it in one place, then transport it to another (thereby settling and compacting the powder), instead of a fireball rolling up into the air, you are more likely to have an explosion of the can itself, possibly injuring yourself or bystanders with metal-can shrapnel. Building the device in its final location also prevents any possible static discharge between it and the ground which could occur if it was lifted up.
Now, I insert the Visco safety fuse through the hole in the base of the can, put the can on the ground, and pour the black powder (BP) lifting charge into the can. I make sure the BP is spread evenly around on the bottom of the container. Then I cover the BP with a round piece of thin tissue, cut from a paper napkin or from facial tissue.
This tissue barrier prevents the flammable Cremora-type powder, which is about to be added to the can, from settling in between the BP granules, which would slow the BP's burn rate. We want the BP to burn rapidly and develop enough pressure to quickly propel the flammable powder into the air.
Now, it's just a matter of gently pouring the Cremora-type flammable powder into the can, on top of the tissue-paper barrier, filling the can one-half to two-thirds full. If the powder you are using is clumped a bit, and is not completely free flowing, it is a good idea to sift it through a wire-mesh kitchen colander before pouring it into the can.
The Cremora is now ready to be fired. If it is not going to be fired immediately, cover the device with a piece of aluminum foil to prevent dew, rain, or humidity from affecting the contents.
You'll want to be a good 30-50 feet away from even one of these small fireballs when it ignites. You will feel the radiant heat from the fireball as it rises into the air. If you test-fire one of these during the daytime, you might see a giant smoke ring form as well.
Details, Details
As you are following along in this process, a few questions have probably now popped into your mind.
How much and what type of black powder should I use? How does that vary from one size container to the next?
What kind of Cremora-type flammable powder works best in these babies?
How could I fire these electrically during a choreographed show?
Could we add anything to the fireballs to make them more impressive? (We pyros are never happy to leave well-enough alone, are we?)
Black Powder Lift Charge
Commercial 2FA black powder is traditionally used as the lift powder in Cremora fireballs. A good place to start when determining how much of it to use is 0.1 ounce per square inch of container bottom. This results in the following amounts:
3-inch diameter container 0.7 ounce 2FA
4-inch diameter container 1.25 ounces 2FA
5-inch diameter container 2 ounces of 2FA
6-inch diameter container 2.8 ounces of 2FA
7-inch diameter container 3.8 ounces of 2FA
8-inch diameter container 5 ounces of 2FA
9-inch diameter container 6.4 ounces of 2FA
10-inch diameter container 8 ounces of 2FA
These amounts will result in a layer of 2FA on the bottom of the container that covers it completely and is about 1/4" thick. This is a good starting point, and can be adjusted to taste. The correct amount of lift powder will result in a great fireball, but the container will remain in place and intact.
The first time I ever made 5 gallon Cremora fireballs (10" diameter bucket bottom), I used a pound of commercial 2FA lift powder in each one. "Yeah, that looks about right," I said to myself and to those around me. We ended up with great fireballs, and pieces of bucket strewn far and wide. "Hmmm, maybe we can back off on that lift powder a bit."
In Skylighter Fireworks Tips, #96, we learned that it is possible to make our own, very functional, red-gum/alcohol granulated black powder using Skylighter Airfloat Charcoal, and nothing more than a couple of screens.
This homemade black powder works wonderfully in these Cremora fireball pots. I actually like the slightly softer lift that this homemade BP provides. When using it, I like to use between 1.25 and 1.5 times as much as I would of the commercial 2FA amounts listed in the above table.
Different Kinds of Cremora-Type Flammable Powder
When this subject is brought up, quite a few variables are encountered.
There are many different varieties of non-dairy coffee creamer available. As I said above, I was unable to locate the actual Cremora brand. I tested Coffee Mate, Kroger brand creamer, and the cheaper store brands from Wal-Mart and Biggs.
A friend of mine was able to purchase a couple of pallets of out-of-date Vitamite non-dairy powdered milk replacer, and we've been making very nice fireballs with it for a couple of years. Vitamite is available from Diehl Food Ingredients, www.diehlinc.com, but it costs $180 for a 50 pound bag.
ne member, who has attended the PGI conventions in years past, has brought 50 lb. bags of floor-sweepings from a factory that makes powdered bases for gravy mixes and soups, and has made this powder available to attendees. This powder quite often has a fat-content of 50-60%, and has produced some of the brightest and hottest fireballs I've personally ever seen. Very impressive!
I have often used Land-O-Lakes Lamb-Milk-Replacer, and have been very pleased with the results. This product is now up to about $50 for a 25 lb. bag, and is often available at farm-feed supply stores.
Another pyro has used a product called Glufil which is powdered walnut shells. This dust is considerably less expensive, at $22 for a 50 lb bag, and is available at www.rogergeorge.com. I've seen photos of fireballs made with it and they looked very nice. The fellow who has used it reported that it did not perform quite as well as Cremora, though.
I've heard of folks using fine sawdust, or even wheat flour. One well-respected pyro recently told me that he uses finely powdered Gilsonite, which is an asphalt-like product that is available from Skylighter. I had to mill the Gilsonite that I had on hand to a fine dust in my coffee grinder, because it was originally in the form of larger crystals. Just remember that whatever you use, it must be a very fine, flammable powder.
Well, all of the above information and options certainly calls for some experimenting, doesn't it? So, I got my lovely assistants, my wife and granddaughter, outside on a nice spring evening after dark, and I made up some small Cremora fireball pots in a 28 oz. can, using many of the flammable powders listed above. At the last moment, I decided to include pots made with Skylighter airfloat charcoal, powdered confectioner's sugar, and my homemade spruce/pine airfloat charcoal.
Then I fired them one at a time, and we graded each one based on how impressive the fireballs were.
The results were as follows, with the resulting fireballs rated on a scale of 1-5, with 1 being not-so-good, and 5 being "man-that-curled-the-hairs-on-my-arms":
Small 28-Ounce Fireball Scores
Wheat flour 2
Kroger brand creamer 2.5
Coffee Mate creamer 2.5
Fine pine sawdust 3
Powdered sugar 3.5 (Interesting purplish flame)
Wal-Mart brand creamer 3.5
Lamb milk replacer 4
Vitamite 4.5 (Lower fireball than others)
Spruce/pine airfloat 5 (Lots of hanging sparks)
Skylighter airfloat 5 (Hot, high, bright fireball)
Gilsonite 5 (Hot, rolling orange and black fireball)
Note: The one thing that kept the Vitamite from receiving a 5 was that it produced a lower fireball. It is a very fine, dense, powder, and tends to be more difficult to blow up into the air and disperse into a large cloud. I came to the conclusion that it needs to be fluffed up a bit, and decided to mix it half-and-half with sawdust in future testing. The performance of any relatively dense powder may be improved by mixing it with some sawdust in order to fluff it up a bit.
These were small, backyard-type fireballs, and I wanted to see how the top performing powders compared in large, display-size Cremoras. So I took some 5 gallon buckets to a recent club shoot, and tested large fireballs there. The results were as follows:
Large 5-Gallon Fireball Scores
Half-and-Half Coffee Mate/Wal-Mart brand creamer 3
Gilsonite 4
Skylighter airfloat charcoal 4
Lamb milk replacer 5
Half-and-half Vitamite/sawdust 5
These large Cremora fireballs from a distance of 200 feet looked better when they were brighter, and the latter two produced those kinds of fireballs. But, none of the above was bad, and each one produced its own unique effect.
Firing Cremoras Electrically
Warning: This can be done easily, but must be done in a particular way in order to be done safely. I have heard of someone being gravely injured when they made a Cremora, with an electric match in the lift powder and the wire leads dangling out of the bucket, and then they lifted the assembly causing a static discharge through the ematch leads and firing the bucket.
First of all, the Cremora pot must be made in place and not moved. Barricade the pot by building it in a hole in the ground, or by placing safe barricades around the bucket. If you are using a 5 gallon bucket, remove the metal handle to prevent it from becoming flying shrapnel in case the bucket is fragmented during firing of the Cremora.
Secondly, quickmatch, or plastic-tape-wrapped Fast-Fuse, must be run into the lift powder from outside the bucket, either through a hole near the bottom, or from the bucket top, down the inside of the bucket and into the black powder. The electric match is then installed into the end of the quickmatch/Fast-Fuse, which insulates the ematch from any static charge that might build up in the Cremora powder.
Then, the Cremora pot is constructed as described above.
Note: Some folks insert an inexpensive metal mixing bowl into the bottom of the bucket, and then install the Cremora fireball ingredients in and above that bowl. I have never done this, but, reportedly, it can increase and improve the upward thrust of the powder and the resulting fireball.
Interestingly, the Cremora fireball pot shown in the picture above, made at the last moment for illustration purposes, was made with the remaining 6 containers of the cheap Kroger coffee creamer that I had purchased for this project. In the small-can test shots, this powder produced only a 2.5-rated, somewhat disappointing fireball. But, the 5-gallon pot's fireball was very hot and impressive. This suggests there is plenty of room for experimentation and personal taste as these devices are developed and refined.
Parasitics
This is what we call additional effects that ride on top of a main device or effect. I, personally, like Cremoras made simply as described above. But, sometimes powdered metals like titanium or aluminum are sprinkled into or on top of the flammable powder as it is added to the container.
I've also seen small aerial fireworks shells, or just individual fireworks stars, placed gently on top of the fireball powder, to be ignited and propelled into the air when the Cremora is fired. This provides some room for creativity on the part of the fireworker, but as usual, safety precautions must be considered, and safe setbacks must be observed. Additionally, after the firing of the Cremora, the site must be inspected for any un-ignited effects.
So, there you have them--some of the simplest, and most effective, fireworks crowd-pleasers you can come up with.
Stay green, have fun, and don't waste that coffee creamer by actually putting it in coffee.
Ned
7. CO2 Bombs
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/co2bombs.htm
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse, but firecracker fuses work, if you can runfast enough. Now, light it and run like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!!
8. Napalm – Soap and Gasoline
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/napalm2.htm
About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistancy, like jam and is best for use on vehilces or buildings. Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capicity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame.
Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.
9. Exploding lightbulbs
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/litebulb.htm
Exploding lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-lightbulb (100w)
-socket (duh...)
-1/4 cup soap chips
-blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
-1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
-adhesive tape
-lighter or small blowtorch
-glue
Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so that it touches the filament!
- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or else YOU will be the victim!!)
- Get the hell out!!
Procedure for a Napam Bulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler
- Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.
- Put somewhere and allow to cool
- Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue. Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
- Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the fluid.
- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently used by the victim and get the hell out!!
When the victim flips the switch he will be in for a BIG surprise!
10. Calcium Carbide bomb
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/calcabom.htm
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!
11. Generic bomb
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/generbo.htm
1) Aquire a glass container
2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
3) Cap the top
4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates
5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff from a snake bite kit) 6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object. *AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT 1/2 STICK OF DYNAMITE* 12. Matchhead bomb http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/mathbom.htm
Match Head Bomb by the Jolly Roger
Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devestating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse.
A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal.
Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV.
Nitric Iodine-Ammonia explosive: Simple Unstable Explosive
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/unstex.htm
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight and then pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance. Let this dry till it hardens. Now throw it at something!!!!
13. Egg-based gelled flame fuel
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/eggbase.htm
The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
Materials Required
------------------
Parts by
Volume Ingredient How used Common Source
-------- ---------- -------- -------------
85 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas Stations
Stove Fuel Motor Vehicle
Solvent
14 Egg Whites Food Food Store
Industrial Farms
Processes Any one of the following:
1 Table Salt Food Sea Water
Industrial Natural Brine
Processes Food Store
3 Ground Coffee Food Coffee Plant
Food Store
3 Dried Tea Leaves Food Tea Plant
Food Store
3 Cocoa Food Cacao Tree
Food Store
2 Sugar Sweetening Sugar Cane
foods Food Store
1 Saltpeter Pyrotechnics Natural
(Potassium Explosives Deposits
Nitrate) Matches Drug Store
Medicine
1 Epsom Salts Medicine Natural
Mineral Water Kisserite
Industrial Drug Store
Processes Food Store
2 Washing Soda Washing Cleaner Food Store
(Sal Soda) Medicine Drug Store
Photography Photo Supply
Store
1 1/2 Baking Soda Baking Food Store
Manufacturing Drug Store
of: Beverages
Medicines
and
Mineral
Waters
1 1/2 Aspirin Medicine Drug Store
Food Store
Procedure:
---------
CAUTION: Make sure that ther are no open flames in the area when mixing flame fuels! NO SMOKING!!
1) Seperate the egg white from the yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into a dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.
2) Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container, and add gasoline.
3) Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally until gel forms (about 5 to 10 minutes).
NOTE: A thicker gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in hot (65 degrees Centegrade) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temperature. (DO NOT HEAT THE GELLED FUEL CONTAINING COFFEE!!)
14. How to make nitrocellulose from Ping Pong Balls
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Nitrocellulose_1/
intro: How to Make Nitrocellulose
How to make cheap Nitrocellulose from ping pong balls, black powder, and acetone for use in igniters and detonators.
step 1: Mix Acetone and Cut Up Ping Pong Balls
Cut Ping Pong ball into small peices to make them easier to disolve in the acetone. Ping Pong balls themselves are a type of nitrocellulose, acetone will disolve them and
make them easy to work with and make it possible to add black powder for a more violent ignition. After the ping pong balls are cut up and in the contianer you are using
to mix your ingredients in pour enough acetone to cover the cut up balls and than add that amount again. You don't want it too think and sticky.
step 2: Add Black Powder
Next add the black powder. Add enough to make the mixture very dark, but don't add enough to make it very thick. Make sure that black powder you are using is very fine
and mixed evenly through out the mixture. There you have it, it's done. Now dip you igniters/detonators in it and let dry completely.
For detonator check out http://www.instructables.com/id/EH6Q99985NEPA8L6YC/?ALLSTEPS
15. How to make a durable homemade fuse
http://www.instructables.com/id/Extremely-Durable-Homemade-Fuse/
intro: Extremely Durable Homemade Fuse
This is a homemade fuse that is very durable and won't break if you flex it or try to tear it apart.
Materials
1) Cement for plastic models. I used Testors
2) thin cotton string (use your judgment and don't make buy string too thin)
3) something big and smooth that you don't mind getting dirty like a latex glove or piece of paper
step 1: Making it
1) Take the string and put a line of glue down the length of it. Wait a few seconds until it turns kind of pasty and add another line of glue down it.
2) Once you have a substantial bit of glue down it, take the paper or glove and rub the string smooth. Once the fibers are saturated and smoothed, your fuse is done
16. Making charcoal powder
http://www.instructables.com/id/Making_Your_Own_Charcoal/
17. How to Make potassium nitrate
http://www.skepticfiles.org/new/027doc.htm
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:
Materials needed:
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow, heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape
Procedure:
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked.
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom.
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the bottom
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let it sit
- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This is the posassium nitrate.
Purification:
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
- Remove any crystals that appear
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness.
- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
18. Delay igniter from a cigarette
http://home.scarlet.be/comicstrip/anarcook/cigdel.htm
A simple and economical (everyone wants to save money haha) time delay can be made with a common cigarette.
Materials Required:
------------------
Cigarette
Paper match
String (shoelace or similar cord)
Fuse cord (improvised or commercial)
Procedure:
---------
1) Cut end of fuse cord at a slant to expose inner core
2) Light cigarette in normal fashion. Place a paper match so that the had is over exposed exposed end of fuse cord and tie both to the side of the burning cigarette with string.
3) Position the burning cigarette with fuse so that it burns freely. A suggested method is to hang the delay on a twig.
Note: Common dry cigarettes burn about 1 inch every 7 or 8 minutes in still air. (Now I am talking about all except American brands, which burn about 1 inch every 4-5 minutes) If the fuse cord is place one inch from the burning end of the cigarette a time delay of 7 or 8 minutes will result.
Delay time will vary depending upon type of cigarette, wind, moisture, and other atmospherc conditions (get to know your cigarette!)
To obtain accurate delay time, a test run should be made under "use" conditions.
IMPROVISED EXPLOSIVES VIDEOS
1. How to make a hairspray bomb
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oxsme4AgcSQ&feature=related
2. Making black powder with charcoal and sugar
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcqccZmDzL8&feature=related
3. Thermite on a Car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEmHJORTlqk
4. Thermite reaction
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S84UMbF0s2k&feature=related
How to make thermite. Demonstration in which it’s used to melt through a pan.
5. How to make a Works Bomb out of toilet bowl cleaner and tin foil
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/307550/how_to_make_a_works_bomb/
6. How to make a chlorine bomb
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/834056/how_to_make_a_chlorine_bomb/
7. Sugar Water Chlorine bomb
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbzihL1iq6U
8. Non-dairy creamer explosion
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRw4ZRqmxOc&feature=related
9. Non-dairy creamer fire
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoP17YkBJps&feature=related
Firemen playing with a fan, a can of non-dairy creamer and a flame.
10. Sawdust cannon
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvPL7KC1DEA&feature=related
